What to look for buying an MX-5 - Which should I buy?

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Okibi
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What to look for buying an MX-5 - Which should I buy?

Postby Okibi » Sat May 06, 2006 9:58 pm

Alf wrote:http://wiki.miata.net/tiki-index.php?page=Checking%20Out%20a%20Used%20Miata
Used miata inspection list

Imports often more difficult to insure, generally lower resale (but generally cheaper in the first place - so swings & roundabouts), often have interesting after market goodies, usually have sh!te service histories, odometer readings may or may not be based on fact.

Don't buy the first one, drive a few for comparison, as even a clapped out MX-5 is likely to drive better than a reasonable sedan.

For a car of that age (1989-90), also see the short nosed crank problem. Note that this includes '89 cars which are '90 cars to the yanks.

Enjoy,
Alf


For cars with 100,000 kms, check the timing belt has been done.

For NB models up make sure it comes with 2 sets of keys and you have that written on the cars contract of sale.
If you had access to a car like this, would you take it back right away? Neither would I.

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Roderic
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Postby Roderic » Sun May 07, 2006 1:39 pm

Yes, watch out for the Short Nose Crank problem.
If you crank falls off like mine, its new engine time :(

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Postby red63sprint » Sun May 07, 2006 8:02 pm

Biggest tip (as always for a second hand car) - BUY THE BEST ONE YOU CAN AFFORD!
Dont just buy a cheap car - look at the mods these guys do - they can soon cost more than the original purchase price.
And servicing and insurance is very very dear (eg - a grand for the hundred thousand k service). A years insurance for a year for young uns will be a lot more each year.

So buy a good one!

David
1993 Clubman, Mx5plus roll bar
Autotechnica seats, Revalved Bilsteins
Fatcat Motorsport adjustable suspension
Espilier springs, Whiteline front bar.

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Postby SileNceR » Sun May 07, 2006 11:38 pm

Insurance seems to get a bit cheaper the newer model you go - unsure as to why.

I'm 21 and insurance on my NB8B (2000 model) is only $947 for full comp via Just-Car (And RACV quoted $993 so that's fairly ballpark) but I'm sure it was more than that for the earlier models

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Postby Mr_Q » Mon May 08, 2006 9:46 am

The insured value on 10+ year old cars drops sharply too, but you don't always have to accept it.

As an example: when I tried to insure my new '93 Clubman my insurer wouldn't cover it for more than $9600 (even though they'd covered my '91 for $13750 :?).

A couple of phone calls later and I was insured with a new place (Shannon's), who were happy to let me set the insured value. Although they obviosuly charge a higher premium for higher value, it still worked out cheaper.
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MonSqueek

Postby MonSqueek » Thu May 18, 2006 6:02 pm

Having worked as an insurance sales consultant for 2 years I can shead a little light on the hows and whys of premiums for you - I dont neccicarly agree, but this is the logic -

Older cars are more expensive to insure as they have more of a claims hystory, also, as they get cheaper (loss of value) younger drivers can begin to afford them hence the risk rises.... (which is why a new hatchback worth 16k new can cost more to insure then a new sedan valued at 30k new)

Agreed value isnt all it cracked up to be - check the fine print of your policy - even with an agreed vaule you can sometimes get less then what you agreed on.

If your concerned about insurance advoid imports, they will be more expensive to insure or down right impossible to insure.

My advice on all policies is compare what your buying for what price.... How much liablity cover do you get ? do you get choice of repaier? are the repairs garenteed?

BEWARE - Allways list ALL modifications on your policy - or they can refuse or reduce a claim (Only exception is JustCar)
Last edited by MonSqueek on Tue Jan 22, 2008 11:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re:

Postby Mr_Q » Thu Jun 01, 2006 10:21 am

MonSqueek wrote:Having worked as an insurance sales consultant for 2 years I can shead a little light on the hows and whys of premiums for you ...

Out of interest (and without hijacking the thread too much) - do you know why insurance premiums don't take driver history into account? My recent accident was the first car insurance claim I've ever made (in 18 years of driving) and I've never had so much as a parking ticket. Why doesn't that count for anything when it comes to working out insurance risk?

Back on topic - another handy hint: drag along an MX5 club member (or someone from the forums). They should have a better idea of the kind of things to check and what to look for on a test drive. It's cheaper than an NRMA inspection (bottle of bourbon vs. ~$250 :D) and you'll probably get a better report. :)
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Postby skimad » Fri Mar 09, 2007 8:47 am

Hope im allowed to do this in regards to a Sticky :)
Boags sent me this link which was very helpful when I was looking for a MX5

http://www.miata.net/faq/usedmx5.html

Thanks Boags!!!
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Postby Boags » Fri Mar 09, 2007 8:50 am

8)
Spartan Motor Sport : http://www.SpartanMS.com.au

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Postby bensale » Fri Nov 23, 2007 10:47 am

Some info I found useful in looking for my MX-5.

Short nose crank, mainly affects 89-90 cars. Not really a huge problem, over hyped via the internet. You can tell by looking at the front pully, short has 4 slots, big 8. Read this http://www.miata.net/garage/crankshaft.html
Problems usually occur after a cam belt change so ensure you get it done by someone who knows about the crank.

Otherwise mechanically MX-5's are pretty well bullet proof, but keep in mind they are up to 18 years old. If your tall and haven't sat in one yet, go and do it you'll be surprised how much room they actually have.

Check for accident damage, bad repairs, underbody damage, a few cars I saw had dodgy re-sprays.

Look out for extras and modifications as generally cars with mods sell for similar prices to standard cars.

Be aware that there are a lot of imported MX5's around, these are mainly early (89-90) MX5's. There is nothing wrong with having an import just be aware.

I found it useful to do as much research and reading around this forum and others. Also ask questions!

Look and drive as many as you can so you get a good feeling for what mx-5's are about

My advice is to just buy one and once purchased be prepared to smile a lot more than usual :D
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Postby JBT » Sun Feb 17, 2008 10:02 am

Beware of radiators with top tanks that have discoloured to a brownish shade - it will fail soon.
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Postby mekros » Sun Feb 17, 2008 11:25 am

what do you mean by top tank?

Do you mean the cap itself and there is some rust colour besides the normal green?

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Postby Okibi » Sun Feb 17, 2008 11:42 am

If you look at an MX-5 radiator the top and bottom parts are made of plastic while the cooling fins are metal.

Image
(The large plastic piece visible; that the radiator cap screws into is the \"top tank\")

The plastic starts as black but gets more and more brown over the years.

As JBT says, watch out for an OEM radiator that's turned brown, or even slight whitish faded marks OR has obviously been painted black.

(I'll try and find a photo of a cracked one)
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What To Look For When Buying An MX-5

Postby JBT » Fri Sep 19, 2008 12:40 pm

As posted by Alex:

If I was getting an NB I would look at the alarm system as this can cause problems especially if it's been changed from standard.
Check that the engine starts relatively quickly and every time. A forum member here has some trouble with starting their car, although it does start eventually it sometimes takes a long time (10 seconds?).
Make sure the alarm transmitter works, another forum member had a transmitter that only flashes the lights without actually locking the car doors or activating the alarm system.
Check drivers side door, it seems prone to being minsaligned by accidents, even minor rear ending which barely scratches the rear bumper can leave the drivers door misaligned (by a mm or 2, but it is noticeable by looking).

Also check the paint, not sure about the NB8B but with the NB8A the paint had no clear coat from factory, but some repairers don't bother to check this before spraying replacement or repaired panels and add a clear coat. I'm not sure how you could check this, I can't tell by looking but it's very obvious if you are polishing the car.

Check the mirrors as they are prone to fading if left in the sun, sometimes quite badly, also check the headlights as there has been complaints that they are not bright enough (but this could be due to bad bulbs or headlight alignment which you can fix yourself). The headlights are also plastic so might have turned yellow in the sun, this can also tell you if the car has been in a front end accident as one might be more faded than the other.

Check under the bonnet, the fender panel edges on the outside of the engine bay that direct water from the bonnet towards the front of the car might be off colour to the panel if it has been resprayed or left in the sun alot.

Look at the battery to make sure it's a properly vented or a sealed battery (calcium) otherwise you might need to replace it, also if it's a normal battery check the panels for rust or corrosion by taking off the trim surrounding the battery.

I would choose a car that has a standard headunit or if it has an aftermarket one I would ask them how it was installed, because sometime the connector has just been hacked off which could make it hard to install a new unit later on as you will need to cut, solder and heatshrink each connection individually.

Check behind the carpets on the parcel shelf and behind the seats (at the base) for rust or corrosion from water.

Test drive a few to get a feel what they drive like, this will let you know if one is worse than another, although it could be due to tyre choice or bad alignment and balance.

Make sure all the dash lights work and the speedo works properly, one bulb not working could be really annoying at night, normally I would check fuel gauge as well but I've never heard of any problems with mx5 ones.

Check the engine bay condition matches the number of km on the speedo, if the speedo says 50 or under then there shouldn't be layers of oil and muck under the bonnet. Also check the coolant in the overflow bottle and radiator to make sure it looks clean, I have seen some that had alot of corrosion and sludge in it. While you are there take a look at the engine oil, make sure it's not whitish in colour which could indicate a gasket problem with coolant leaking into the oil, also make sure there are no particles in the oil, especially metal shavings, preferably do this after a drive so it's all mixed in.
Another indicator of how many km's a car has don't is the eyeball vents, under 40,000km I would not expect them to droop at all, even on the roughest roads. (mine had 16,000 when i got it, it took until now, 41,xxx for a single vent to droop, and it only happens on the drivers side). Also take a look at the condition of the resivours for coolant and the window cleaner, if they have cracks in them and look old then it's probably had a hard life. Check the indicator and windscreen wiper stalks are solid and don't flap about as this will annoy you later and as far as I know they arn't easy to replace.

Check the demister actually works, there has also been people who have had trouble with this, although the light goes on and the relay clicks the demister doesn't actually heat up, if it doesn't then check it's plugged in (on the parcel shelf behind the passenger, follow the wires for about 20cm) if it isn't then plug it in and try again.

check the air con works, especially for the front demister, if it doesn't then you will hate driving in the rain.

Not sure about how you feel about smoking but if the owner smokes then I would check the steering wheel, I drove a car which had a driver who smoked and every time I got out my hands would be stained with the smell of old stale smoke. (although the steering wheel surround can be replaced relatively cheaply second hand, ~$100-200)

It's already been said to check there are no leaks from the soft top but it's worth checking the tail lights as well, sometimes these let water into the boot as well.

Can't think of much else right now, except for my fluids mid sem which starts in 3 hours, should probably get back to it now.
Maybe this could be a sticky, saves typing it again
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What To Look For When Buying An MX-5

Postby Tallorder » Wed Oct 14, 2009 12:48 pm

In regard to the Short nose crank issue, The US link mentions these numbers:

If you have a 1991 with VIN 209447 or more, you're safe. If your Miata is a 1990 or 1991 with VIN 209446 or less, you have a crankshaft with a smaller diameter nose. (Note: according to Mazda, the European spec MX-5 breakpoint is at 127442.)

Are those numbers generated from the last 6 numbers of the vin or the first after the letter prefix?

Say for example the vin 7A8C11D0799125200. Should I be reading that number as 079912? or 125200?

Also does anyone have any concrete vin numbers for Australian delivered cars (considering there's a bit of a leap between European and American numbers?


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