Aidos' 2001 NB

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aidos
Learner Driver
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2018 3:55 pm
Vehicle: NB8B

Re: Aidos' 2001 NB

Postby aidos » Sun Nov 11, 2018 5:20 pm

The Hel kit was around $220 and fitted up nicely.

Getting a bad shudder from the clutch when cold, which makes it sound like the diff is knocking around a bit. I have read that this was a known issue with cars built around 2001, so I guess a new clutch will be on the cards soon. Any recommendations for a good kit?

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hks_kansei
Speed Racer
Posts: 6154
Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2009 10:43 am
Vehicle: NB8A
Location: Victoria

Re: Aidos' 2001 NB

Postby hks_kansei » Sun Nov 11, 2018 6:40 pm

aidos wrote: Any recommendations for a good kit?


Used Exedy clutches on a few cars, can't fault them.


Clutch shudder can also be a sign of a warped flywheel, worn clutch, or a rear main seal leak.

Rear main seal you can have a look under the car and see if there's any oil at the join between gearbox and engine, not a 100% guarantee the seal is leaking, but a sign.

When the gearbox is removed for the clutch to be done you can see if it's leaking or not.



With the flywheel, make sure to have it machined before re-using.
1999 Mazda MX5 - 1989 Honda CT110 (for sale) - 1994 Mazda 626 wagon (GF's)

aidos
Learner Driver
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2018 3:55 pm
Vehicle: NB8B

Re: Aidos' 2001 NB

Postby aidos » Sun Nov 11, 2018 6:48 pm

No leaks under the vehicle and yeah I'll get the flywheel machined when I replace the clutch.

aidos
Learner Driver
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2018 3:55 pm
Vehicle: NB8B

Re: Aidos' 2001 NB

Postby aidos » Tue Nov 13, 2018 5:15 pm

aidos wrote:The fuel gauge isn't working correctly. I actually ran out of fuel while the gauge read between 1/4 and empty, and the light hadn't come on yet. So I'll be pulling the sender unit out to suss that out.


Turns out that this may not be an issue afterall. I experienced the same thing today with well over half a tank. Was driving up Macquarie pass giving it a bit of a squirt, when I had to slow down behind a truck. After 30 seconds or so the engine coughed, spluttered and died. Luckily there was an area to pull over into.

After checking everything vital under the bonnet was still connected I figured it might be a dodgy crank angle sensor, I know that on certain vehicles when they play up it usually starts happening first when they get hot. So I sat for 10 minutes or so with the bonnet up, started it up and drove home without a hiccup.

The first time this happened was on top of Bulli pass on a really hot day, the day I collected it from my parents house. Due to the fuel being low I assumed it had run out and since my sister was only down the bottom of the hill I got her to bring a jerry up. I now reckon the time it took her to get there was enough for the engine to cool down and the sensor to start working again.

Is this a common issue for these engines? I've seen it on Nissan, Mistubishi and Holden vehicles before but I'm not too familiar with Mazdas so it would be handy to know if I should be looking in a completely different direction.


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