97 MXV's NA8 Gender Transformation

[97 MXV]

Sparkley's New Wheel Alignment

Sparkley returned last week from the Tyre Shop where alignment was measured more accurately, with following results for camber:

I had measured 3.5 degrees negative at the rear, but the Tyre Shop numbers were LHS 2.18 deg neg and RHS 3.49 deg neg.
I had also measured 3.0 degrees negative at the front, but the Tyre Shop numbers were LHS 2.17 deg neg and RHS 3.20 deg neg.

Looking at these numbers, I believe the Tyre Shop numbers as clearly I did not account for the cross fall in my driveway.
I can claim some cred however as my calibrated eyeballs gave me toe in values later measured by the tyre shop of 0.8mm toe in front and 3.2mm toe in rear....not bad

So really I had actually set up camber (2.18+3.49)/2 = 2.85 deg neg REAR (not 3.5 deg neg) and (2.17+3.20)/2 = 2.69 deg neg FRONT (not 3.0 deg neg).
So after some soul searching and input from zoomzoom who will help track test Sparkley, we settled on a camber spec of 2.5 deg neg all round, rather than the more fanciful Front 3.0 deg neg and Rear 3.5 deg neg.
The stance still looks pretty similar post Tyre Shop to before Tyre Shop because as it turns out, Sparkley was actually not far off 2.5 deg neg all round anyway.



So Sparkley's new setup is now:
2.5 degrees negative spec at the REAR....The Tyre Shop numbers being LHS 2.56 deg neg and RHS 2.43 deg neg. (RHS without driver)
2.5 degrees negative spec at the FRONT....The Tyre Shop numbers were LHS 2.55 deg neg and RHS 2.57 deg neg.

Front Caster spec was maximum and measured at LHS +6.52 deg posative and RHS +5.49 deg positive.
I figured it ordinary having an approx one degree difference in castor between LHS +6.52 deg posative and RHS +5.49 deg positive.
Naturally that one degree of separation begged the question....Mate...What are you pulling ?
The answer was a rabbit out of a hat that I had not considered before. The mechanic was very helpful and even warned about something else I had not realised.
He said to watch out for the American video clips explaining a Miata's cross caster was opposite to ours.
Maybe its because of their LHD, but maybe its Coriolis Effect turning their cars opposite to ours like their waste water turns opposite to ours going down the drain.

Toe in was measured at FRONT -0.1mm Toe Out and REAR +0.9mm Toe In

Tie rod end thread engagement factored into the decision to pull back from 3.0 deg neg to 2.5 deg neg for now, and was later measured by me at LHS 16mm (1.3D) and RHS 17mm (1.4D) thread engagement, where D = 12mm.
So 2.5 deg neg camber thread engagement is actually where I originally thought I might end up after dialing in a touch more than 3.0 deg neg camber.

The Tyre Shop, Bridgestone Tyres at Big Top Mount Gravatt were very well priced, good to deal with and obliging.
It helped also that the mechanic working on the car was an MX5 driver.
Handling and feel on the road was noticeably improved after the Tyre Shop worked their magic.
I warned them.....I will definitely be back after further testing and sorting and for any tie rod end changes.

Early results are in....Brilliant....that one degree cross caster for example, means I can now drive hands free while texting Cruella Deville two handed at high speed.
Track testing will be MX5CQ Sprint Monday week at QR.

[Garido]

Let me know when this comes down to WP. Who knows, I might even have a build log up by then,.... and a car.... a working car....


All in all, surprised you're not using the piece of string ;)

[97 MXV]

Sparkley's Big Brakes (Called Sport Brakes in USA)

Now on the question of Brakes, should Sparkley go Big Brakes (NB8B, Standard Brakes (NA8) or Little Brakes (NA6) ?
Big brakes are more powerful but are heavier than little brakes, and that cuts down on ride and handling....so not a win-win unfortunately.
Mazda must have figured that the NA6 was down on power anyway, so no need for powerful brakes and the extra unsprung weight penalty imposed by upsized technology.

For atmocharged Sparkley, I chose Big Brakes, the largest Mazda NA/NB factory brakes available.
My reasoning was an atmocharged engine is not the hottest, so to keep things compatible, I realised that Big Brakes are not the hottest either.
But really, the Big advantage for Big Brakes is to give Sparkley decent sized rotors to set off a beautiful ABS Brembo Upgrade Kit like this within 15 inch rims and to offset the insulating effect of the ABS Brembos.



Note Big Brakes are too big for 14 inch wheels and in some 15 inch wheels like the Enkei RPF1.
Also note that NB8B front and rear calipers are not just mounted differently, they are a different specification from NA/NA8/NB std Calipers. Therefore to fit Big Brakes requires both NB8B discs and calipers.

Now to fit the ABS Brembos I used heat resistant reusable shiny metal thread steel fasteners rather than the single use adhesive bonding agents normally recommended.
This will allow them to be easily removed for pad changes.


----------------------------Rear----------------------------------------------------------------------------Front

Risk assessment of any innovative fastening sytem is an important consideration as the ABS Brembos are made of an High Temperature Industrial Quality Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene, of unknown specification.
In fact, ABS becomes amorphous and so could warp and bend at radiator temperature, so I am unsure of the number of stops achievable at the track before I hear the very close rim clearance established with the spinning rims, start to tighten with heat.
After each Sprint, I could perhaps measure ABS temperature around the mounting screws or maybe impact hammer test the ABS Brembos to hear if they ring like crystal or thud like rubber.
Armed with unbelievable engineering foresight, I even bought a spare set of ABS Brembos so I could bench test with a heat gun, the various phase changes with temperature, of the ABS used.

I have gone to all this trouble with ebay brakes because of their ability to suddenly stop people in the street at the lowest cost.
So now fingers crossed Sparkley will be slow enough for me to brag that I bagged dual function street and track stoppers for just $35.
Otherwise I might have to take a screw driver to remove/replace them each track day with the track tyre change.

One may ask what about heat build up on the road say "coming down the range" ? Actually that should not be an issue.
That's because in an MX5 dríven with maximum Jinba Ittai, brakes are not used to descend down grades; lower gears and high revs are.
So there is only brake heat build up on initial entry to corners, and that build up under spirited driving is likely not significantly affected by highway road gradient.
So the torture test for ABS Brembo's should be on the track with track setup and no limits, where entry speeds into corners are so much higher than on the road with road setup and legal limits.
It is a tortuous test on track because even though exit speeds may also be higher, thereby offsetting speed differentials, the maximum and average on-track brake power are much higher than on-road brake power.

Speaking of Stoppers, Sparkley's engine bay is not graced by a "separate stiff stopper" of the master cylinder, like this



but is instead graced by an "integral stiff mounting" of the master cylinder, like this.



Critical Appraisal
Brakes are primary safety items not just a fashion statement about who we are.
Therefore I figured its worth reviewing my work against something prepared earlier by some kind person.

Used Brake Hose
Elastomers like brake hose do not last forever, they have a shelf life. I imagine the shelf life of a brake hose would be less than 10 years.
So even though my NB8B brakes are only 2003 and its hoses were looking "as new", it was their turn for the scrap bin.
But really that was a good excuse to shout Sparkley some new HEL ADR approved braided lines long enough to reach the NB8B calipers as they are possibly a bit of a stretch for 1997 brake hose length at the front.

Rim clearance
Big Brakes appear not to fit in 14" rims, however are fitted factory fitted inside 16" rims and factory Enkei 15" rims on the NB6B NRA.



Big Brakes fit the 15 x 7 Enkie LM8s, but not the 15 x 7 Enkei RPF1

Space Saver
Big Brakes also need a larger diameter space saver spare. This does not fit an NA boot but found that Sparkley's boot could easily fit a generic NC spare wheel instead.

Dust Shields
I have fitted Big Brakes OK to an NA8 before by pushing the dust shields sideways a little to clear the disc. On an NA6 given their much smaller diameter shields a little more elbow grease would be required. However since Sparkley is using NB8B uprights, spindles and brakes, the largest shields are already fitted.

Rear Brake Bias Valves
I found the NA8 valve with these brakes (the one with the orange band) to work OK with Darth, before Sparkley's gender transformation, but still there was room for a valve with more rear bias as I have still locked the fronts first even with extra grip from semi slicks at track temperature. Brake control is inherently more stable with a bit of front bias, but the NA6 brake proportioning valve is overly front biased in combination with sport brakes so definitely needs to be changed out.
Some info from Flyin Miata

With Sparkley I have decided not to continue experimenting with bias valves, but rather use the complete NB8B brake system including the NB8B Antilock Braking System (ABS), an active control not in need of passive biasing to function.
It is so good to think that with this ABS as well, Sparkley is likely the only Female NA8 in the world with Twin Twins...Twin ABS Brakes and Twin Air Bags. A later post will discuss Twin Air Bags.

Master Cylinders and Brake Boosters
The NA6, NA8 and NB8a master cylinder and boosters deliver adequate pressure to the larger diameter calipers of Big Brakes but because of the smaller bore 7/8 " verses 15/16" is unable to deliver as much brake fluid required by the larger diameter calipers.
Therefore such a system is less tolerant to overheated fluid, entrained air, moisture, soggy brake hoses etc (more chance of running out of brake pedal). I imagine more regular fluid changes required.
It is also another excuse for adding stiffer braided lines ! Now for high temperature fluid, I will not be using DOT 5 Silicon fluid as it is proven too spongy.
Instead I have the system filled with SCA DOT 5.1 ethylene glycol brake fluid at the moment.
Unlike Silicon Dot 5 which will last almost forever, Dot 5.1 fluid is hydroscopic so preferable if flushed every couple of years at least.
Interesting info on the subject.

Legal Requirements
Light Vehicle Code of Practice is a good place to begin to reflect upon intended mods.
For example, after market adjustable brake proportioning valves are not recommended for road use. They can not be legally certified by an engineer because it is clearly foreseeable to the engineer that the brakes are simply adjustable to a different specification.
Use of OEM non-adjustable brake proportioning valves can be certified by an engineer if compliance required.
Use of NB8b brakes with NA6/8 master cylinders and boosters can also be certified by an engineer if compliance required.

However for Sparkley, engineer certification will definitely not be required as the complete ABS NB8b master cylinder, booster and control system is used unchanged from factory.
Also the ABS Brembos are really just fancy dust covers to keep Sparkley's shiny wheels clean, but no one being stopped on the street by them, are to ever know that.

[97 MXV]

Sparkley has made her Debut on Track !



Here she was at QR (Queensland Raceway Clubman, Sprint and National Tracks) participating in an MX5CQ Track Day organised so well by adidistyle. Thanks to the club also for Group 4 participation after delays joining Group 3, while sorting out Sparkley.



I thought Sparkley was the Bell of the Ball on that day, so resplendent in her factory Sparkle Green and added shininess.
Sparkley certainly looked flashy and sounded so sweet as she whooshed past the pit wall. She moved quietly, whilst whispering sweet nothing more than atmocharged revs in my ears.
Believe me, I could feel my chest swelling like a Proud POTUS hearing from so many Great People at the track, saying that it was Sparkley's Incredible Bling, that tremendously improved Darth's previous lap times.
So it was not until days end that the swelling debated in a big sigh of relief that everything (including a tie rod end thread engagement spec of just 1D+) just worked a treat.
That big sigh was a "big thank you" that Sparkley survived her fate this day, despite the ordeal that she was subjected too having to go at 9/10ths with myself, Captain Risque.



Believe it or not, I was also proud that I overcame my fear of the nemesis of countless drivers, The Stig (aka zoomzoom), to give Sparkley an experience that I could not.
I gave her to The Stig so that I could watch her, my pride and joy, go up, up and away to 10/10ths with him.





The difference between 9/10ths and 10/10ths on the Clubman Circuit was 71.1 seconds for Captain Risque and 67.1 seconds for The Stig, a difference of 4 seconds, a golden opportunity for the Captain to improve.

I was also feeling good that The Stig and I could demonstrate how mindfulness, competency and collaboration has the power to can keep Sparkley and her ABS Brembos safe from harm operating not only at his 10/10ths, but also at my 9/10ths.
Both of us working her over relentlessly throughout the afternoon with little chance for a break, little chance to cool down. It was merciless and cruel, lap after lap after lap, on and on.
Her only respite could be heard in the "tap tap" resonant responses of her ABS Brembos to audible fingernail tap checking them for overheating, tyre pressure adjustments and damper adjustments after each 5 lap stint.

She responded well such that her initial significant oversteer character changed and she became quite balanced with one less psi at the front and much tighter dampers at the rear. Tyre temperatures were a little hotter on the inside indicating little benefit to be gained by dialing further negative camber than 2.5 degrees.
Despite what the tyre temperatures are saying, I am stubbornly holding on to 2.5 degrees negative camber specification, because of its street appeal. Tyre temps have moved me on however from any further vain ideas of 3 degrees plus negative camber.

I am pleased that the ABS Brembos survived the ordeal we put them through and that I resisted pressure to remove them for the Track Day.
With two drivers in different groups, the ABS Brembos where subject to 65 laps in the afternoon at twice the normal rate and survived.
Having now established they will be safe for ordinary purposes, the testing is complete and I can now remove them on future torture tests (Track Days) as one less thing to manage.

The test results show The Stig/Sparkley 7th fastest MX5 on the Clubman, 4th fastest MX5 on the Sprint and 4th fastest on the National while Captain Tisky/Sparkley 22nd fastest MX5 on the Clubman, 14th fastest MX5 on the Sprint.
We were very happy with Sparkley despite some worn pad brake fade, 180 kph speed limiter (JDM ECU) kicking in and ABS not functioning. There are better times ahead, particularly with ABS connected properly and new slightly harder pads, ECU speed de-limited and the rear sway bar made adjustable.
The day also showed Sparkley could trust in The Stig's and the Captain's skill and determination as a team, situationally aware sufficient to keep her safe at 10/10ths and 9/10ths respectively.
That takes discipline getting back into the groove after a few years absence.

Upon reflection, it made me think how hard it must be for a team performing at 10/10ths day in/day out on a Flight Deck.
A flight deck, like a cockpit is a busy and dangerous place leaving no time for brain storming because one's head is on a swivel.
Its a place where every sense is triggered to operate at a height of situational awareness that you can't imagine; only develop a gut feeling for.

In any case, the numbers are up and the verdict is in, RICED was Raced for Real so now I can only claim to be a fake RICER.
And thanks to The Stig, Sparkley can now take a bow for her debut performance after the operation.

[Magpie]

Nice result, you may need to look at brake ducts and different pads especially for the national layout! I would (of course) suggest Winmax W5's maybe a bit dusty for street use but can handle high temperatures with no fade.

Best news is nothing broke and you drove home.

The 180 speed limit is a part of the dash not the ECU, it is a very simple fix.

Sounds like you are gaining momentum on the slippery slope, aero mods next?

[97 MXV]

Nice result

Thanks magpie for words of encouragement and advice.
Good hopefully cheap news about the ECU. Confirming the dash has a JDM 180 km speedo, so I guess I will start there then.
I plan to keep Sparkley "topless" and mechanically tickling with her suspension and my driving for a while. I really don't want a hardtop.
However I did buy a bikini top for Sparkley and might try that soon to see if it makes any difference



I have been learning a little about aero from zoomzom recently so who knows what might be in store for Sparkley in the future.

[Magpie]

Remove the screw circled in red to remove the 180 limit, at least this is for the NA6


Whilst I could be sound a bit hypocritical now, but, "seat time, seat time, seat time, and more seat time"

[speed]

The larger space saver does fit in a NA boot. I have one in mine.
You just have to tilt it and slide it in place.

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

[97 MXV]

Feedback from Bauer on Tie Rod End Thread Engagement

Given what is presented here I warn against an advertised specification beyond 3 degrees negative....some could argue less...few would argue more.
Therefore to support such a specification I believe extended tie rod ends should also be offered by Bauer with the extended lower ball joints as matching pairs.

Have you taken this up with Bauer?
I have had some contact with them and whilst I wasn't overly happy as my ball joints had developed vertical play, they were fairly approachable and replied to emails etc.

You hit on an extremely critical matter to feed back issues like this to the manufacturer because it is far better they do something about how we use their product than we, the users do.

I have had a nice email response from Cord Bauer a few days ago and copied below:
Hi Keith,
Please excuse my extremely late response. I wasn't getting any email from my website.
With over 1,000 pairs of ELBJ's in use in the United States, there have been zero issues to date regarding the tie rod ends. I understand your concern as this is something we considered prior to building the new part. It would be possible for me to offer these parts too, but they haven't seemed necessary as of yet.
Usually an adequate threaded connection has enough threads to cover 1.5 times the diameter of the rod, but I'd consider this a minimum number. If you're beyond this number then you're probably safe.
Again, sorry for the slow reply.
Best regards,
Cord Bauer
www.bauerltd.com
www.readyramp.com

As can be seen, Bauers advice is 1.5D thread engagement as a safe bet.

In my case to get 2.5 degrees negative camber, I gave myself less than 1.5D because my thread engagement is properly managed.
Mine is a little less because I have personally ensured my thread engagement is not a safe bet but rather a sure thing...
namely LHS 16mm (1.3D) and RHS 17mm (1.4D) thread engagement, where D = 12mm.

Bauers response about offering longer tie rod ends is something Bauer have considered. I quote...
It would be possible for me to offer these parts too, but they haven't seemed necessary as of yet.

Now American safety statutes give manufacturers a basic freedom to care, to choose to act or not on any risk to the public.
Basically Americans do not have to act unless bullied by Tort Lawyers. So basically we either show Americans the money, show them our dead or show them our lawyers before they are likely to act.

Knowing the rules, I appreciate Cord demonstrating his freedom to care for me by providing me with a safe limit of thread engagement of 1.5D.
Obviously Cord could extend that care to other visitors to their ELBJ web page should he choose in the future.
(In America, that choice is often made by one's own lawyers in a bloody place which is a paradise for lawyers).

I am providing the results of my wheel alignment setup to Cord. Mine is only one sample of the many sold and setup in cars worldwide.
Results may vary which is why the extra safety margin of longer tie rod ends seems attractive, but failing that maybe proper Tyre Shop adjustment limits would suffice ?

[97 MXV]

Big Brakes also need a larger diameter space saver spare. This does not fit an NA boot...

The larger space saver does fit in a NA boot. I have one in mine.
You just have to tilt it and slide it in place.

Another Myth Busted ?

Great description speed and some photo evidence gets you the pic of a Kari Byron Bust for exposing other people's fakes.



I would argue isn't that response easier on the eye than me standing before you corrected ?

[97 MXV]

The remnant black garnish is part of alter ego Darth, but to complete the shine, the Plan is to trial a chrome vinyl wrap a spare rear garnish...
A lot will depend if the extra shine will ever able to be shown to rivals on the track.

ljs18 has kindly donated a rear garnish to the fiendish cause of making Sparkley beat her rivals on the track.
The traditional "go faster chrome" effect will be employed to cause rivals to hold back to gaze on Sparkley's shiny new bum in absolute awe.

If you're looking for functionality and style, why not do a modest bumper cut...?

Thanks Lokiel ! What a great way for Sparkley to dare to lift her skirt with a cheeky peek back to those following her in absolute astonishment.

Remove the screw circled in red to remove the 180 limit, at least this is for the NA6

Thanks ! Excellent example of cheap advice that's so valuable or is that valuable advice that's so cheap ?
In any case, I was clearly busted by Magpie's solid photo evidence, so Magpie, please take your Pic of a Kari Byron Bust in absolute triumph.

"seat time, seat time, seat time, and more seat time"

Thanks again ! I will take that advice with a big dose of Jinba Ittai as "saddle time, saddle time, saddle time, and more saddle time"

[97 MXV]

Email to Bauer giving Specifics on Tie Rod End Thread Engagement
Hi Cord,
My car is an NA8 with NB8B standard front and rear subframes suspension and brakes.
The front wishbones and rubber bushes are all stock NB8B MX5 unmodified.
The rear wishbones and rubber bushes are all stock NB8B MX5 with top wishbones outer bolt holes slotted to allow more negative camber.

I originally intended to set my car up at 3.0 degrees negative all round, however I was confronted with insufficient thread engagement left in the tie rod ends.

So instead of 3.0 degrees, my setup is now:
• 2.5 degrees negative spec at the REAR....The Tyre Shop numbers being LHS 2.56 deg neg and RHS 2.43 deg neg. (RHS without driver)
• 2.5 degrees negative spec at the FRONT....The Tyre Shop numbers were LHS 2.55 deg neg and RHS 2.57 deg neg.
• Front Caster spec was maximum and measured at LHS +6.52 deg positive and RHS +5.49 deg positive. The one deg difference is to allow for road cross fall on RHD cars Downunder... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2IiJ4_XW5w
• Toe in was measured at FRONT -0.1mm Toe Out and REAR +0.9mm Toe In
• Ride Height is 320 mm front and 330 mm rear using the accepted wheel centre to guard lip dimension method

Tie rod end thread engagement factored into the decision to pull back from 3.0 deg neg to 2.5 deg neg, and was later measured by me at LHS 16mm (1.3D) and RHS 17mm (1.4D) thread engagement, where D = 12mm.

So in my sample of one, I found I could not achieve 2.5 deg negative with 1.5D thread engagement.
Unless my suspension is an outlier, these numbers suggest that 3.0 degrees negative is unobtainable with 1.5D thread engagement. These figures suggest even 2.5 degrees negative camber is a bridge too far.

Subsequent track testing with 195/50/15 Toyo R888 tyres suggest that 3.0 degrees negative may be way too much anyway.
With 2.5 degrees negative I was finding the inside of the tyres slightly hotter than the outside with the fastest driver in the MX5 Club of Queensland driving it all afternoon in sprints (7 laps each) at Queensland Raceway on the Clubman and Sprint circuits.





So I think my job is done.
I have fed you back clear information about a situation which if not properly managed by end users like me could be problematical.

I know we have been lucky with the 1000 or so sold so far, but this image below does not look good if it is displayed in a courtroom discussing why someone with a love of too much negative camber is now dead.

You are free to use this image on your website to explain to people not to go too far with the negative, because those critical threads are hidden from view inside the tie rod end. It is not obvious to people screwing out the tie rod when enough is enough.



In the meantime, I am looking at ways to ensure the threaded joint stays secure with fewer threads than 1.5D as it appears a longer tie rod end is not going to materialize anytime soon.
I am a consultant mechanical engineer and sadly, sweating this sort of detail stuff interests me.
regards

[StillIC]

Unless my suspension is an outlier, these numbers suggest that 3.0 degrees negative is unobtainable with 1.5D thread engagement. These figures suggest even 2.5 degrees negative camber is a bridge too far.

Well, there is one other important factor, and that is toe. I am pretty sure you can get 3.0 degrees if you are willing to alter/compromise your toe setting to suit. Of course, there are good reasons not to do this.

As I mentioned in a earlier post, I have 17mm engagement, ~3.6 degrees of neg, and a bit of toe out from a look down a straight edge, but I have yet to build a reliable method to measure this toe with the wheels on. Long story, but I set my wheel alignment (camber and toe) with jigs I built myself (that bolt to the hubs in place of wheels), but they seem a little inaccurate on the MX5, whereas they were spot on on my Celica. I think it is a bush distortion issue due to a slightly different load path compared to the wheel and tyre.

Anyway, I can wear some toe out on my car, as on the track (I have been told) I can lift the inside front wheel during cornering, thus negating the inside wheel's affect on vehicle direction.

[97 MXV]

Well, there is one other important factor, and that is toe. I am pretty sure you can get 3.0 degrees if you are willing to alter/compromise your toe setting to suit. Of course, there are good reasons not to do this.

A significance test of this hypothesis is that 1mm of tie rod engagement thread added either side would equate to about 5mm of additional toe-in overall, so agree if straight line travel envisaged, this would be one of the good reasons not to do this.

As I mentioned in a earlier post, I have 17mm engagement, ~3.6 degrees of neg, and a bit of toe out from a look down a straight edge, but I have yet to build a reliable method to measure this toe with the wheels on.

My improvised methods did not properly account for flatness and level of my driveway. Had I repeated the results with the car reversed into the same places, that error may have averaged out. Interested to see your future Tyre Shop results to compare with mine at some stage.

Long story, but I set my wheel alignment (camber and toe) with jigs I built myself (that bolt to the hubs in place of wheels), but they seem a little inaccurate on the MX5, whereas they were spot on on my Celica. I think it is a bush distortion issue due to a slightly different load path compared to the wheel and tyre.

Any improvised jig has to support the hub the same way as in inflated tyre would. Agree different Kin Pin Inclination and Scrub Radius between MX5 and Celica might cause errors as the bushes are not ideal pin joints.
Also the ride height on the jig will obviously be in error from different KPI and Scrub Radius on the jig changing the proportion of weight carried by the coilovers. Otherwise jig alignment is a reasonable concept I would have imagined.

Anyway, I can wear some toe out on my car, as on the track (I have been told) I can lift the inside front wheel during cornering, thus negating the inside wheel's affect on vehicle direction.

I would imagine say 5mm toe-in or more would cause a roll steer effect with lateral g, the effects of which is not often exploited due to straight line considerations, but interested in hearing results if you choose to give it a go.

[97 MXV]

Latest from Bauer on Tie Rod End Thread Engagement
Hi Keith,
I'm running the exact same numbers.
I will be looking into extended rod ends, or if there are potentially any rod ends or steering tie rods that Mazda sells for other cars that may be 25mm longer.
Perhaps a Protege, 626 or Mazda truck?
Best regards,
Cord Bauer
www.bauerltd.com
www.readyramp.com