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Sorry if I had of known you were waiting for a trailer you could have just borrowed ours

I think that the NC with a 2.5 is the perfect base for a fantastic 2b car... and if I were starting again this is what I would do. In saying that, I guess i'm asking are you going to build another NC to a 2.5 or are you getting something else and going 2f?

And in terms of rotors, I use the cheapest wilwood's and they are fine... but I do have lightweight v8roadster hats, so I guess thats a bit different anyway.

Yeah, I would have lent you tim's trailer too

Agree with tim, a 2.5 NC build for 2b would be great. There are also few good 2f cars for sale...

I found when I put t3 discs on mine, I started chewing brake pads - it actually took me a while to put the two together, but I went through 3 or 4 sets of front pads (a few different brands) and only got the discs down to half life. Now I have the same kit as tim, mostly cause I was sick of changing brake pads.

plohl wrote:Yeah, I would have lent you tim's trailer too

Agree with tim, a 2.5 NC build for 2b would be great. There are also few good 2f cars for sale...

I found when I put t3 discs on mine, I started chewing brake pads - it actually took me a while to put the two together, but I went through 3 or 4 sets of front pads (a few different brands) and only got the discs down to half life. Now I have the same kit as tim, mostly cause I was sick of changing brake pads.

Are you guys thinking a forced induction 2.5 build? Does that qualify for 2B? I costed up a turbo build on my 2.5 and it come out north of $20k by the time you got enough oil and water cooling and upgraded/strengthened the drive train but if you have the pockets I see no reason 400hp isn't available and maybe more!

No, the prod sports rules prevent you from boosting (turbo or super) a car that wasn't boosted in factory form. Which is why you don't see any NA turbo mx5s in prodsport... or rarely anyway. Given the similarities between the NA and NB though.

A naturally aspirated build is the way to go. I've said it a million times.

Turbos are trouble.

plohl wrote:Turbos are trouble.

...but such fun!

plohl wrote:No, the prod sports rules prevent you from boosting (turbo or super) a car that wasn't boosted in factory form.

My reading of the rules some time ago suggested that an Mx5 log booked as 2a may be able to compete with a turbo where there wasn't a factory option for it - is that correct?

I suppose you'd have to be happy to lose all the time and get really good at waving people by given the other machines in 2a...

I would guess you would be right on the 2a rule, but we don't run a 2a class so it would end up in our 2x class. No issue with that, it still means people out there racing.

2.5, no I mean a naturally aspirated build. I would not run a turbo mx5 as I don't have a Porsche budget, and if I did I would just run my FD

Tim_cyc03 wrote:I would guess you would be right on the 2a rule, but we don't run a 2a class so it would end up in our 2x class. No issue with that, it still means people out there racing.

2.5, no I mean a naturally aspirated build. I would not run a turbo mx5 as I don't have a Porsche budget, and if I did I would just run my FD

Are you saying your NA is N/A? I'm blown away by that!!!

Correct, no turbo, no supercharger, just itbs.

....but everything else modded to the Moon!

Maybe look at the MX5 NC import that Boyracer has for sale.. $6k for a roll caged car is not a bad start.

Snowmotion wrote:Maybe look at the MX5 NC import that Boyracer has for sale.. $6k for a roll caged car is not a bad start.

Ideal! Thanks for the heads up. Might have to put a full on build in hold atm though, too much uncertainty around jobs etc.

Tim_cyc03 wrote:Correct, no turbo, no supercharger, just itbs.

That’s just hugely impressive. Even with ITb’s you can’t be get much more than 210crank hp up against Stuttgart’s finest.

It turns out the timing was ever so slightly out after the over rev. Basically, the whole crank and cams timing is held in place using some washers with a rough diamond coating and a bolt torqued up bloody tight. On the down side if you want a high revving engine you need to key the crank but on the plus side the engine protect itself pretty well in the event of and over rev.

So to time it you set TDC using the crank and a couple of bolts, on in the crank case and through the crank pulley. Then you slacken off the crank bolt and lack the camshafts with a special tool. Then simply tighten it all up again, remove the various timing pegs and tools and put the car in gear then lean on the torque wrench ALOT! Job done.

Sounds easy, but to get the cam cover off you have to pull the wipers and cowl cover off then remove the bulkhead brace and to get to the crank pulley the battery comes out and then to get the bolt torqued up the air box gets removed. So a bit of work.

Anyway, all done and ready for post lock down fun!