Barton's NA6

[bartmanftw]

Its very neat as per usual.whats the reason for the MAF why not use MAP sensors like the rest of us plebs?

I'm actually still using speed density as my fuel algorithm for the moment until I fix up a few things that are causing air to enter the engine un-metered (PCV & BOV). I also need to look at changing the intake to a smaller more suitable size and/or add airflow straighteners in front of the MAF.

When I do switch over though I'll still use the MAP sensor for a number of functions in the ECU like boost control and it will still be the main load axis for the spark table. Using a MAF I'll be able to measure the airflow going into the engine instead of calculating it. It will be more accurate since I won't need to worry about correction factors like air temperature.

[bartmanftw]

Visited Winton raceway this past weekend.
Nut behind the wheel was very rusty and only managed a 1:40.86 even with the wider wheels and RS-4 tyres. 0.1 off my PB with no turbo and 205 RE71Rs. I did however get some good data.

Engine coolant temperatures with the new electric water pump peaked at a slightly higher temperature than previously (~100degC) although that is likely due to the water to air heat exchanger sitting in front of the radiator. Nothing to worry about at this point.

Engine coolant vs MAP


Oil temperature was quite good reaching a peak of 110degC without the use of an oil cooler. I previously removed the oil cooler since temperatures on the street were too cold. When fitting the electric water pump I reversed the flow through the 'warmer' under the oil filter so that cool water straight from the radiator would flow though it instead of hot water from the rear of the head. I'm not sure how much this would help but oil temperatures look pretty good.

Oil temperature vs oil pressure


The charge air cooler did not work very well which I was expecting. Definitely need to change the heat exchanger to something more suited to the job. The temperature stabilised around 70degC which is far too hot.

Intake air temperature vs MAP


I also did notice that I was getting boost creep from 6000rpm on so the turbo wastegate could benefit from some porting to improve flow.

[plohl]

a lot of the race cars up here reverse the flow through the oil cooler, and it works pretty well. Some use the NB8B cooler, as it's a bit bigger.
Most of the turbos have air-oil coolers though, but different requirements for a race car to a track day/ time attack car.

[bartmanftw]

a lot of the race cars up here reverse the flow through the oil cooler, and it works pretty well. Some use the NB8B cooler, as it's a bit bigger.
Most of the turbos have air-oil coolers though, but different requirements for a race car to a track day/ time attack car.

Well there you go then. First I've heard of anyone else doing that.

[plohl]

Yeah, it's funny how many tricks aren't really discussed.
This is also done mechanically on most of the cars - there's a water channel on the exhaust side that was to feed the turbo on the BP blocks, the early ones already have it tapped and blocked off. You can manually do it if needed, then just run the lines around the back of the head to the oil cooler.

Some have also installed small electric pumps in line, to increase the flow through the system that can be turned on via ecu or switch.

In some classes you can't run electric what pumps

[bartmanftw]

Another idea to take it a step further would be to run the water to oil heat exchanger on a seperate water circuit with an electric water pump and a small water to air hear exchanger.
Something I may consider if my oil temps ever get too hot since I already have a spare small electric water pump.

[bartmanftw]

Received and fitted a Honed Developments brake booster delete. Very well put together kit that was quite easy to install. It comes with a new push-rod for the master cylinder and a template to drill a new mounting hole in the brake pedal to move the pivot point. The pedal feels a bit stiffer but I quickly got used it it. It feels much easier to control brake pressure now and the pedal feels much more linear.





I also fitted a new heat exchanger for the inter-cooler which bolted right up to the A/C condenser brackets. It's much more effective than the A/C condenser however both barbs are on the same end-tank and I don't believe there is any internal baffling to split the end-tank to make it a true dual core radiator. If I run the pump to circulate coolant through it the air temperature rises fairly quickly on boost however if I leave the pump off so that the water in the radiator cools and then turn the pump on in boost the temperature stays quite stable for a while. Plan is to cap one of the barbs off and add a new one on the other side so that the water will flow properly through the core. I guess I should expect this sort of thing from eBay parts

[plohl]

I got the booster delete kit as well, but I'm running it with a 1" master at the moment and think it might be a bit too much. Have you noticed the firewall flexing heaps? It was super noticeable in mine. Got a brace for it though... still a little flex
I've track tested it and I would say it's an easy +100 to trail braking, but i'm definitely not getting on the brakes hard enough during initial application, and haven't made it back to the 6-7MPa I used to hit with the booster. Bit harder to tell if a wheel has locked as well, but I figure i'm just not used to it yet.

Seems like a good bit of kit so far, and would definitely recommend it. Be interesting to see if many others end up getting it.

[bartmanftw]

I haven't checked the firewall flex yet. I did have a brace for the master cylinder but had to remove it since it no longer reaches the master cylinder. I may need to find another one that will fit.
Yeah I figure I'll have to get used to standing on the brakes much harder during the initial application to get the same sort of braking before.

[PaulF]

... both barbs are on the same end-tank and I don't believe there is any internal baffling to split the end-tank to make it a true dual core radiator. If I run the pump to circulate coolant through it the air temperature rises fairly quickly on boost however if I leave the pump off so that the water in the radiator cools and then turn the pump on in boost the temperature stays quite stable for a while. Plan is to cap one of the barbs off and add a new one on the other side so that the water will flow properly through the core. I guess I should expect this sort of thing from eBay parts

That's hilarious! Surely it would be just as easy to get a plate welded in to make it twin pass though? I guess maybe it's more a matter of packaging/hose routing?

[bartmanftw]

That's hilarious! Surely it would be just as easy to get a plate welded in to make it twin pass though? I guess maybe it's more a matter of packaging/hose routing?

I could do that but it would simplify my hose routing if it came out on the other side anyway. Would be more trouble cutting off the end tank and welding on a proper separated end tank. Easier to just add a barb on the other side.

[lucmor444]

Any special tools needed to fit the booster delete Alex? Thinking of doing it myself if its relatively easy and I have everything I need.

[bartmanftw]

Any special tools needed to fit the booster delete Alex? Thinking of doing it myself if its relatively easy and I have everything I need.

No special tools required. Just a drill and drill bit ( can't remember the exact size) and your standard sockets/spanners. I would recommend flared spanners though for the brake line fittings.

[lucmor444]

Great - I reckon I’ll give it a go. Should also improve airflow for at least one itb.

[bartmanftw]

Since we've been in lockdown I haven't been able to access my car but finally got a chance to fit some of my new Kraken low mount manifold kit which has been sitting in a box for weeks. Only fit the new exhaust so far which luckily fit up with the old dump pipe outlet. Will need a few new bits to be able to fit the low mount manifold.

New muffler is massive compared to the old one. Hoping it reduces the exhaust volume a lot. Not a huge fan of loud exhausts...must be gettting old



Also has a nice angled exhaust tip. I think it looks a lot better than the old one which stuck out too far.




While in lockdown I've been working on a bit of an ambitious project to re-design the cars electrical architecture. Still nowhere near complete but I have started designing a IP harness, front body harness, rear body harness and power distrubution harness. I'll be developing a body control module (BCM) using an arduino processor to control it all. Already written most of the code which will give some extra functionality like three indicator flashes on a single press, interior/exterior light on/off fade and auto up/down window control. Will wait until I finalise the harness before working on the BCM harwdware so I know how many I/O I require.

IP Harness


Front Body Harness


Rear Body Harness


Power Distribution Harness