Barton's NA6

Red_Bullet · Postby **Red_Bullet** » Sat Oct 31, 2020 10:00 am

Well, that created a stunned silence. I admire your motivation :wink:

bartmanftw · Postby **bartmanftw** » Sat Nov 07, 2020 6:29 pm

Red_Bullet wrote:Well, that created a stunned silence. I admire your motivation

Haha thanks

I tried out the new muffer with the original exhaust manifold and it's heaps quieter. Still has a deep tone but not too loud which is nice.

Now to fit the new low mount manifold and adjust everything to suit. Need to make a new longer oil feed line, change the oil drain for a shorter one (was sent a long one by mistake originally but it worked out anyway). Also had to clock the turbo bearing housing to get the drain on the bottom as well as the compressor outlet to point down again.

Plan is to run an NA8 airbox to make it look as OEM as possible. Will aslo keep it quiet. Need to order a smaller MAF pipe to fit into it.

In the meantime I may just run this air filter, although it will be quite loud.

Due to the position of the turbo now the compressor inlet has interference with the water pump inlet housing. Luckily since I had already modified it to delete the heater return pipe it was an easy job flipping it the other way around to get it out of the way.

Postby **beavis** » Thu Nov 19, 2020 2:41 pm

Red_Bullet wrote:Well, that created a stunned silence. I admire your motivation

I concur. Stunning electrical design work.

bartmanftw · Postby **bartmanftw** » Mon Nov 30, 2020 1:45 pm

Low mount manifold is in and everything connected up. Just have to fill up the coolant before starting and hopefully there won't be any leaks.

I kept the oil feed on source from the VVT actuator since it was easier to just leave it there than run it down to the oil pressure sensor port which was the original plan.

Unfortunately I didn't have the right silicone bends to have the compressor outlet facing down. Limited room down there since the subframe and water pump is quite close and there' a limited angle the compressor can be clocked to due to the wastegate actuator. For now I've just got it pointed out the side which means stock airbox won't clear.
Accessing all the bolts and fittings is so much more difficult than the 'high' mount version of the manifold. Luckily there was still half decent access to the dump pipe bolts and oil feed fitting to tighten them but the water and drain fittings had to be tightened to the manifold before it was lowered in. I'll look into different fittings to connect the water lines since it's not ideal having to take the manifold off to loosen or tighten them.

Also while everything was off and I had good access I swapped the engine mount for an innovative poly one. Annoyingly it didn't clear the dipstick tube so I had to grind it down for clearance. Not sure Why that would be the case.

Still need to source an OEM heat shield and modify it to bolt up to the manifold.

bruce · Postby **bruce** » Mon Nov 30, 2020 2:37 pm

I think I see what ur trying to do-stock airbox, stock heatshield, low mount turbo. A stealthy turbo install?

bartmanftw · Postby **bartmanftw** » Mon Nov 30, 2020 2:58 pm

bruce wrote:I think I see what ur trying to do-stock airbox, stock heatshield, low mount turbo. A stealthy turbo install?

Pretty much. Stock airbox will also keep intake noise quiet. The GTX makes a very loud spinning noise which sounded great at first but it's a bit annoying now especially because the turbo spins up so easily.

bartmanftw · Postby **bartmanftw** » Tue Jan 12, 2021 8:41 am

Went to take it for a test drive the other day and fill the tank up since the fuel that was in there was quite old. Ended up stalling when I got back home and wouldn't restart. Checked the data and it went lean for no apparent reason. Waited about 30min and restarted and left it idling and stalled again after about 10min. Unfortunately I haven't got a fuel pressure sensor but from what I could tell it was losing pressure. Had a look at the fuel pump relay and the fuse and contact in the relay had melted a bit. Looked like it was getting too hot.
Luckily I had a neat relay box lying around so I wired that in to replace the old relay and used a higher rated relay. Still need to check if there's an abnormal resistance in the circuit causing excessive heat. The new relay still gets hot but still cold enough to touch with my fingers so hopefully I won't get the same issue again. Will also be able to add up to 5 extra relays to the box at a later date if I need to.

Old relay with integrated fuse.

New relay box with separate fuse holder.

I've also moved houses and now have a nice big double garage to work on the car

ManiacLachy · Postby **ManiacLachy** » Tue Jan 12, 2021 10:08 am

What pump are you running? I've heard the bigger pumps can cause excessive draw and require a dedicated relay. Your solution looks really neat.

And that new garage looks awesome! :DIY:

bartmanftw · Postby **bartmanftw** » Tue Jan 12, 2021 10:23 am

I'm running a DW200 pump which is supposed to use around 10-11 amps at my fuel pressure however when I measured it last it was a couple of amps higher than that. I wouldn't want to run it through the OEM wiring which takes power from the main relay in the engine bay fuse box. Before I wired in a separate relay from the battery I had a few failed main relays.
I think I'll swap to a DW100 since it should flow enough for my power level and roughly half the current which will put less strain on the relay. Will get around to fitting a fuel pressure sensor at some point to make sure it will flow enough.

greenMachine · Postby **greenMachine** » Tue Jan 12, 2021 11:45 am

I assume that new relay/fuse are rated for high current draw, in which case I would leave well enough alone ... though the reason for the higher than spec current draw should be identified in case it is related to the leaning.

The leaning out is a definite worry, and logging fuel pressure would be a high priority if it were me. I assume you will log at the fuel rail, or nearby? It might be worth also disconnecting the lines and hooking up some high pressure air to clear any crap that has got in there, and checking the fuel filter too. If nothing is found, pulling the pump and bench testing it, including checking the filter, might be needed.

:mrgreen:

bartmanftw · Postby **bartmanftw** » Tue Jan 12, 2021 12:25 pm

The new relay is only rated an extra 5amp more but it is of higher quality and the fuse is now separate with better contacts with more surface area. I'm not sure the current draw is out of spec as the rated current is at a different voltage to what the system is running at and I was using a clamp hall effect sensor which I doubt is that accurate at that amount of current. I checked the resistance between the fuse contact, through the relay and pump back to ground and there's about 1-2ohm of resistance so seems the circuit seems ok as best I can tell without removing the pump at the moment.

Adding a fuel pressure sensor is high on my to-do list. There's a spare port in my fuel pressure regulator I fit a sensor to monitor the pressure. At the moment I still at least have an lambda safety system so if it does end up happening again under load it will cut the engine.

bartmanftw · Postby **bartmanftw** » Tue Jan 19, 2021 12:57 pm

New relay seems to be working fine and isn't getting very hot. Keeping a spare in my glove box just in case though.

Also haven't really pushed it too hard yet but the new water to air heat exchanger seems to be working quite well. Ambient temperature was about 21 and the highest intake temperature I saw was about 40 with the water pump turning on at 35degC.

About 10 seconds at full throttle with a temperature rise of under 9degC. It also seems to plateau fairly quickly and barely increased after the gear change.

bartmanftw · Postby **bartmanftw** » Sun Jan 24, 2021 1:42 pm

Fabbed up a heat shield for the new manifold to reduce the temperature of the surrounding components. Was planning on using the OEM heat shield but the embossed aluminium was a lot easier to cut and bend into the correct shape.

Also since I'm no longer using the A/C fan I connected the output to the purge solenoid in order to vent the charcoal canister. When active it has a small impact to the amount of fuel required to be injected and the closed loop correction removes about 5% or so depending on load and how saturated the canister is. At the moment I've got it active during cruise RPMs and load. Should make a small difference to fuel economy.

bartmanftw · Postby **bartmanftw** » Thu Feb 11, 2021 5:15 pm

Installed some boot lighting I've had sitting around for years and never got around to fitting up so I no longer need to use a flashlight when it's dark. Pretty simple wiring, just power ground and a trigger circuit between them so they both turn on at the same time. Since they turn on/off with capacitive touch there wasn't any need to connect up a switch for when the boot is opened.

I also sold my MS3Pro to a friend and made an adapter board since his car is an NB8B. I designed it with an onboard MAP and baro sensor since the gen1 pro doesn't have an inbuilt sensor.

Also made another one for myself however it doesn't plug into a Megasquirt...

...plugs into this. Picked it up when there was a special on and am keen to get it fitted and have a play around with it. Fair bit more advanced than Megasquirt. Will also let me convert to drive by wire in the future. I was considering just wiring it straight into the car but this way I can at least swap the MS back in if I run into any trouble with the initial setup and want to drive it.